January 5, 2012 8:51 AM PST
The system on your bike is a 4 wire system, Left turn, Right turn, Brake, Tail. The trailer system is a 3 wire system, Left turn/brake, Right turn/brake, Tail. You must install a 4 wire to 3 wire converter, These are available at any RV place for about 20 bucks. Adding the additional load of LED through the converter will not affect your turn signals, brakes, tail because either you are running standard bulbs on the bike and the additional load has little to no affect or you already are running LEDs on the bike in which case you already have a load equalizer and need to tap in the converter after the load equalizer. The load equalizer is required when switching the bike from standard to LED because the TSSM uses the load of the bulbs for turn signal timing and security the load equalizer compensates for the reduced load of the LED by putting a resistor across the lights to increase the load. In other words you save no power by switching the bike from standard to LED lights because you have to add load to make the TSSM work. Adding the small amount of load from the trailer LED no affect. The plate light has no affect either way because it does not go through the TSSM and is always on.
So at the minimum you have to have a 4 wire to 3 wire converter.
You can also buy one of the more expensive units which hooks to the battery and completely issolates the trailer lights from the bike and only uses the bike light as an input with no additional load to the bikes lighting system because it is coming straight from the battery.
I'm running full LEDs on the bike with a load equalizer. Then I have a 4 to 3 wire converter and straight to the trailer.
I hope I have made this as clear as mud. I'm at work and don't have the color codes in front of me or I's include that.
If you don't want to use T splices on your bike you can get one of the plug and plays from JP, I just spliced them in, figured it can't hurt as crappy as the wiring harness is on a Harley.
See you at the Redwood Run.
