June 13, 2010 7:59 AM PDT
I believe my motor mount stabilizers on my motorcycle are in need of replacing, and I am considering purchasing the V-Thunder Velva-Ride stabilizers. Does anyone have them on their bike and are they worth the extra money?
Hey Jeff ~ glad to see your post on True-Track ~ my Dyna has been getting squirrly (just approaching 10K on it) and I was looking into the system. Also need some new rubber ~ was looking at Metzler instead of Dunlop, but hear they're not made in Germany anymore (Brazil). Read some good stuff on the the new Michelins too...
July 6, 2010 12:48 AM PDT
I had the metzlers on my softail - they did not last near the time the Dunlops did and once I got about halfway into the tread the front had a whine that drove me nuts thinking it was front bearings.
I have heard good things about the Michelins as well but don't know anyone that had used them.
Ya might want to check out the Dunlop Elite #3 Tires also. I agree the 402 Dunlops are not the best tire but Dunlop does make some good ones abeit a little on the pricy side compared to the 402's that HD puts on there stock bikes.
Well ~ I guess I'll be the one to give you guys a report on the Michelins... two Scorcher '31s' coming. Got an email back from Paul at True-Track and he thinks my motor mounts need to be replaced and then put the system on. Buell designed the bike and patented it to have three links ~ H-D man'fs it with only one... Touring bikes have two I understand, but on the Dyna, the only way to adjust is for vertical, not for tracking with the front wheel. I'm learning more all the time... CHA-CHING!$$$$
July 7, 2010 12:28 PM PDT
It will be like riding a completely different bike. This is what I put on my Road King
August 27, 2010 5:24 PM PDT
the true track system looks like its easy to install on a lifted bike, but has anyone done it with the bike not lifted off the ground, just wondering since im in the market for this product. thanks as always for the info
August 28, 2010 1:52 AM PDT
I put the dog bone that mounts in the cross member and the tranny cover on mine with the bike on the jiffy stand. Piece of cake.... The swing arm bearings, I had a shop press them in....
August 28, 2010 7:45 AM PDT
Guess I shoulda bought a bagger, eh Jeff... heh heh! Dyna isn't easy squeezy ~ albeit, I had to do mods because of oil cooler and rear bracket requires UBER PATIENCE!!! Be prepared to purchase a banjo bolt to relocate your rear brakelight switch (search Brake Switch Banjo Bolt, 3/8" -24) and do a little extending of the wiring (some soldering and hit shrink tubing. You will also need a 3/8-24 allen plug and some DOT4 to refill and bleed your brake. Don't get hasty ~ the rear brake line is about $100 from the stealer... if you are working on a Dyna series. Not that I have that experience or anything... ha ha!
Wife felt the difference the moment we took off ~ good luck!
April 22, 2013 5:22 PM PDT
It very well could be your engine stabilizers or your rubber motor mounts (they are two different things) it could also be rear wheel alignment or something else all together but these three things are the most likely.
The front rubber mount is easy to check. Make sure it is in good shape and all fasteners are torqued to spec. The rear mounts are more difficult to check and require a special tool.
First I would check rear wheel aligment. If that is ok then put the bike on a stand or lift and get it as level as possible. Then, attach an inclinometer to the rear rotor and take a reading (it doesn't have to be exactly at 90 deg. but close). Then take a reading from the front rotor (same side as the rear). If the reading is more then 1 deg. off from the rear, you are out of alignment.
The first thing you can do is make sure the bottom stabilizer is not loose. If it is you need to adjust the motor mounts before re-tightning the the bottom stabilizer (procedure is in the service manual). If it is tight you may be able to solve the problem by adjusting the top stabilizer.
Loosen the locknut then mark the position of the adjusting nut with a sharpie or crayon so you can put it back in the same position if adjusting it fails to solve the problem. This will make life easier if you have to replace the rear motor mounts. tighten the motor mount 1/2 turn and take another reading. If you are getting closer to 1 deg then contine until you are at 1 deg. or better. If you are getting further then go the other way and loosen. If you can't get it to within spec then go back to the original position. You will have to re-torque and/or replace your rear motor mounts.
Replacing the rear motor mounts requires a special tool and a very specific procedure. If you want to do it yourself the service manual will walk you through the procedure but I highly recommend using the tool or things can get really ugly fast,
Good Luck!